It was early morning in mid-December when I woke up to the sound of a constant noise as I lay on the top bunk in my 9-by-5-foot family room. Amtrak's Southwest Chief trainI climbed down a flight of stairs and found my husband and five-year-old daughter still sleeping on the bottom bunk. I sat on the gray bench by the window, pulled aside a blue curtain, and stared at the sight of peachy-pink clouds as we drove across the rugged desert. We were passing through Holbrook, Arizona, and the sunrise was so beautiful it looked like a watercolor painting. At that moment, I felt like I was in a Wes Anderson movie.
There’s a childlike sense of wonder that comes with taking a train across the sprawling Southwest to New Mexico in the winter that you just don’t get by flying. We opted for a 16-hour overnight trip instead of a two-hour flight to Albuquerque because we longed for a different way to travel, one that we hoped would make time pass more slowly in our busy lives. Though we slept through half the journey, we spent the remaining hours admiring the beautiful scenery—which looks especially magnificent through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Sightseer Lounge—and enjoying a three-course steak dinner before arriving in Albuquerque around 11 a.m.
If you've never planned a nearly 800-mile train trip before, you'll find some considerations different than traveling by plane or car. Depending on the accommodations you book, Amtrak's Southwest Chief, which runs to Chicago, can be more expensive than flying. But whether you're traveling with kids, alone, or with a friend or partner, there are plenty of ways to make it fit your budget.
Read on for tips on the Amtrak experience, plus what to do, what to eat, and where to stay in New Mexico. If you're lucky, you might even catch a dreamy snowfall in the Land of Enchantment.
Book your train tickets
The early bird gets the best accommodations. Book your tickets (from Union Station to Albuquerque) as early as possible, as the most attractive rooms (especially family rooms, which sleep up to two adults and two children) are the first to sell out. While economy class seats are inexpensive, being able to stretch out for the night in the private rooms can make a big difference. Stateroom and dormitory options can sleep up to two adults (although the former may be a bit tight), and the dormitory suite combines two adjoining rooms. Some have a private bathroom and shower, while others are shared, so book accordingly. One advantage of having a room is that it's considered first class, so a dedicated attendant will be available to help with turndown service and luggage, and meals in the dining car are free.
Arriving at Union Station
Union Station in Los Angeles.
(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)
If you're looking to avoid a hectic LAX experience during the holidays, think of Union Station as its laid-back sister. Overnight parking It's almost always available at the Union Station East parking garage for $8 per day. (If you plan to park there for three nights or more, download and fill out a form.) parking request form from the Union Station website and drop it off at the parking office located at Union Station East).
Plan to arrive at least an hour before your train departs if you have to check luggage, are traveling with family, or have made a specific request for assistance at the station. Otherwise, 30 minutes should be sufficient. If you have a first class ticket, head to the Amtrak station waiting room to enjoy complimentary drinks and snacks while you wait for your departure.
What to bring
If you're checking luggage, be sure to bring a small overnight backpack that will fit in your room or in the overhead bin near your coach seat. (In smaller rooms, carry-on luggage may not fit and may need to be stored outside your room, so you'll need the overnight bag for easy access.) If you need to charge multiple devices, bring a small multi-plug splitter, as there's usually only one electrical outlet. Earplugs can muffle train noise at night. And bring cash to tip first-class attendants and waiters.
Transportation in Albuquerque and how to get to Santa Fe
The Amtrak train will arrive at the Rail Runner Station in downtown Albuquerque. You can book a ticket from there. Turo Rental where the vehicle is delivered to your location or visit Company about a mile away (and call the rental office ahead of time to schedule a free pickup). Or take an Uber or free city bus to the rental car center at Albuquerque International Sunport Airport, where more options are available.
To get to Santa Fe, you can drive there in an hour or extend your trip by train with a 1.5-hour ticket on the New Mexico Express Railroad to the Santa Fe Depot Rail Runner station, which is half a mile from downtown Santa Fe.
Things to do in Albuquerque
Old Town Poco a Poco Plaza in Albuquerque.
(Jean Trinh)
Stay: The historical Andalusian Hotel It's a five-minute walk from Albuquerque Station, making it a perfect base for adventure. There are plenty of cozy spaces to hide away in this Moorish-style hotel, with stunning casbah-inspired alcoves in the lobby, a library with a fireplace, and Spanish tapas and more in the wine bar. Further.
Eat: Enjoy a New Mexico style breakfast at the Grill and central cafeteriawhere red or green chile (can't decide? Order it “Christmas style,” a combination of both) reigns supreme in comforting dishes like burritos and chilaquiles. For more modern fare (and more diverse options), head to the lively Sawmill market either 505 Central Dining Hall for everything from Detroit-style pizza to ramen and tacos.
Do: Albuquerque Old Town It's a year-round attraction with its Spanish-style architecture, galleries, shops and restaurants, but it's even more special during the holidays, when its plaza glows at night with farolitos, or luminarias as they're also known (a southwestern Christmas tradition consisting of lanterns made from brown paper bags). On Christmas Eve, you can get tickets to a 45-minute display. Tour of the Luminaria Bus ride through decorated streets. ABQ BioPark Botanical Garden will host its annual meeting River of lights Holiday attraction from November 30th to December 30th with over 700 illuminated displays on a 1.5 mile walking trail. For winter sports, visit Sandia Peak Ski Area, 35 miles northeast of Albuquerque. And for the kids, keep them entertained at the sprawling Explore interactive museum.
What to do in Santa Fe
Snow covers Santa Fe Square.
(Jean Trinh)
Stay: During the holidays, the lobby of the city center Inn of the Governors It transforms into a cozy studio with Christmas decorations, a roaring fireplace and a daily welcome hour with sherry and biscuits (New Mexico's state cookie with cinnamon and anise). A full breakfast is included for guests at Del Charro Restaurant and Bar, which is open until midnight most days.
Eat: Pasqual's Cafe It's packed all day for good reason: It has solid New Mexican dishes made with local and organic ingredients, it's in a vibrant space decorated with colorful papel picado, and it even has a community table for solo travelers to make new friends. (Be sure to check out its adjacent art gallery While you're there.) The 71-year-old man ShedAlso a Santa Fe institution, this is a great place to stop for margaritas, pozole, and red chile enchiladas.
Do: He Walk along Canyon Road and Farolito Christmas Eve is an old tradition in Santa Fe, where thousands of people walk down the art-filled street to see the lights. There is also La Luz de las Noches in the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, Evenings from December 19-31 (closed December 24-25), with lanterns, musical performances, food and drinks. For snow activities, travel 35 miles northeast from downtown to Skiing in Santa Fewhich will debut a new high-speed elevator this winter. Also, don't miss the massive immersive art experience of Meow Wolfand film screenings at the home of “Game of Thrones” creator George RR Martin. Jean Cocteau Cinema.
