In January, 18 of Los Angeles's most beloved pop-ups, restaurants, bakeries, emerging talents, and established names was approved as a semi-finalist for the 2024 James Beard Foundation Awards. Only two finalist nominees have been chosen this morning.
The annual awards celebrate multiple facets of the hospitality industry, including beverage programs, notable restaurateurs, leadership, new restaurants, emerging talent and pastry chefs, and are one of the country's most prestigious honors in the field. Although this year's Los Angeles semifinalists included a wide mix of stalwarts and startups, only two, along with an Orange County bar, will attend the awards ceremony on June 10 in Chicago.
Lord Maynard Llera, of Melrose Hill's celebrated restaurant Kuya Lord, is the only contender from Los Angeles in this year's Best Chef: California category. Llera debuted his Filipino barbecue operation as a pandemic pop-up from his home in La Cañada Flintridge, then in 2022, Kuya Lord became a casual but equally praised restaurant where their pancit, lechón and sweet sausages are served alongside more modern dishes such as freshly charred grilled hiramasa collars and hearty mushrooms with tofu in makrut and lime green goddess dressing.
LA Times food critic Bill Addison called Llera “an exciting new expressionist of Filipino cuisine, a talent whose time had come.” The veterinarian of Grupo Bestia and h.wood had dreamed for more than 20 years of opening his own restaurant; he now he is competing as one of the best chefs in the state.
Llera found out during a family visit to the Philippines. When contacted this morning, she said she was almost speechless.
“Being a semi-finalist already seemed like a victory to me,” he told The Times. “Now being one of the finalists is surreal. I never dreamed or thought about being nominated. “It means a lot to me and the restaurant because it will highlight Filipino cuisine moving forward.”
One of the Los Angeles area's most thoughtful proponents of traditional cereals and naturally leavened breads and pastries can be found in Long Beach. Artisanal bakery Gusto Bread, which sources organic, sustainable and local grains, produce, honey, flours, spices, coffee and more, is competing for the national featured bakery category.
What started with a small wood-fired oven in 2013 has grown into a cozy home bakery. housed in the old living room of owners Arturo Enciso and Ana Belén Salatino; They began distributing their baked goods at farmers markets, and as word of mouth grew, so did their business. Gusto launched its brick-and-mortar bakery in 2020, and since then, crowds have lined up to enjoy pan dulce, whole loaves, jalapeño bolillos, mole empanadas, and other signatures that embrace and showcase culture and heritage through baking.
Ambitious Anaheim tiki bar Strong Water, with its dozens of bold, large-format classics, originals and even non-alcoholic odes to the tropical beverage, is a finalist in the national featured wine and beverage program category. Husband and wife team Robert Adamson and Ying Chang found success with their Anaheim speakeasy, the Blind Rabbit, but at Strong Water they really made a splash.
The theme is de rigueur for a tiki bar, but this one includes an elaborate backstory and immersive decor tied to the story of its sunken ship. LA Times named Strong Water as one of the The Best Tiki Bars in Southern Californianot only for its well-made classics but also for its modern and thoughtful updates to standards.
Southern California's only other nomination can be found in San Diego, where Animae's Tara Monsod is a finalist in the Best Chef: California category.
In Northern California, Carmel-by-the-Sea's Chez Noir is a finalist for best new restaurant; the Morris in San Francisco is a contender in the prominent wine and beverage program; Pacific Cocktail Haven, also in San Francisco, offers an exceptional bar; and Geoff Davis of Oakland's Burdell, Rogelio Garcia of Calistoga's Auro and Buu “Billy” Ngo of Sacramento's Kru are finalists for best chef: California. Farmer Mai Nguyen, of Farmer Mai of Sonoma County, is nominated for a leadership award.
The winners of the 2024 James Beard Foundation Awards will be announced at a ceremony on June 10 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. You can find the full list of 2024 finalists here.