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Dolce & Gabbana paid homage to Madonna with conical bras at its latest show, as the singer watched from the front row.
Madonna sat next to supermodel Naomi Campbell, wearing a custom D&G black lace veil and gold tiara: she was a living muse for the show's mix of eras and attitudes.
She wasn't the only inspiration for Milan Fashion Week's spring/summer 2025 collection: there were also elements of Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s silhouettes and hairstyles.
When the brand was founded in 1985 by designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, it quickly became synonymous with elaborate animal prints, stripes, black lace and florals.
The duo's recent collections have attempted to overcome this stereotype, with their latest all-black monochrome collection featuring boxy blazers, silk lapels and lace camisoles, finished by none other than Campbell.
The latest show blended D&G's past and present aesthetics, with sensual silk and demure lace taking centre stage, while the iconic sheer florals and stripes also made a comeback.
As the show began, the blackened room filled with rich Italian string music until it became a staccato, danceable tune. The panels opened to reveal models posing like Hollywood stars on a gleaming white staircase – all sporting a cone bra and bleached blonde curls à la Marilyn (or Madonna).
Madonna’s iconic cone bra from the 1990 Blonde Ambition tour was originally designed by Jean Paul Gaultier. Dolce & Gabbana reimagined this iconic symbol of female empowerment and sexual liberation for the show, using sensual metallic satins and boudoir-style lace.
Corsetry, long a cornerstone of the brand's aesthetic, was reinterpreted with exaggerated, heavily structured bustiers, while hourglass silhouettes and vintage-inspired skirt suits seemed to draw inspiration from 1950s style stars like Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly.
The fabrics were sumptuous: satin, silk, lace and tulle were adorned with intricate sparkling embellishments, while sheer layers put a modern spin on things.
Accessories added another layer of 1950s glamour, with cosmic gold earrings and handbags adorned with gold hardware. Beauty looks were elegant and refined, inspired by mid-century Hollywood, but kept current with fresh, radiant skin.
Dolce & Gabbana fused opposing attitudes of the eras through elegant cardigans over lace slips and polished trench coats opened to reveal dangling bras and garters.
The final models wore only nude colours, sporting burlesque corsets, tasselled dresses and silk bodysuits, with model Mona Tougaard closing the show in a pale peach silk conical corset with exposed garters.
As the designers gave their thanks, they ran to Madonna, who hugged them and congratulated them.
Dolce & Gabbana certainly reaffirmed its place in Milanese fashion with this collection: pushing boundaries and honouring tradition.
