Cheltenham Festival Style Day: The complicated unwritten rules of Wednesday at the races


dDo women have to wear a headdress? Do men need to dress as if they are attending a shooting party hosted by Julian Fellowes? Is tweed essential? What if he knocks it down? Think of the Cheltenham races, which start today (March 12), and you'll probably imagine, well, all of the above: a sea of ​​country checks and herringbones, fur collars and more fedoras than an artists' convention, probably adorned with pheasant feathers.

But while other equestrian events have always tended to impose strict, often specific dress codes, Cheltenham has never had an official policy on race day dress. The expectation that ticket holders dress smartly was just one of the unwritten rules that are so common at dressy-skewing events, especially those involving horses. Last year, however, things eased up a bit. The Jockey Club (it is the organization that owns 15 of Britain's most famous racecourses, including Aintree, Epsom, Sandown and Cheltenham, but not Ascot, the proud defender of British horse racing's most Byzantine dress code) removed the edicts on clothing throughout the country. their headquarters. The only exception, they said, would be “offensive costumes, offensive clothing of any kind and replica sports jerseys.”

This move was part of an attempt to improve the racing's reputation, to make it feel more “accessible and inclusive”. According to Jockey Club executive director Nevin Truesdale, “enforcing a dress code seems quite old-fashioned in the 21st century in the eyes of many of our racegoers.” Now, attendees at all of the organization's events are simply encouraged to “dress however they feel most comfortable and confident,” which is all well and good, but it certainly leaves a lot of wiggle room. It's a bit like the sartorial equivalent of your mother telling you that she “really doesn't need anything” for her birthday: vague and full of potential pitfalls. And we should note that not everyone is excited about this slight change. “It's a terrible idea because it encourages mediocrity,” said milliner Jonny Beardsall. The times before last year's races.

Reports from the 2023 event picked out a few more pairs of jeans, sneakers and even, brace yourselves, tracksuits than we would have expected in previous years. But there is no real reason for Cheltenham fans to be wringing their smartly gloved hands. “I haven't noticed much of a difference yet in what guests choose to wear,” says personal stylist Lindsay Edwards. “It seems that the vast majority of people are still willing to 'dress up for the races'.” This year, Ladies' Day has been renamed “Style Wednesday” and is all about slow fashion, celebrating vintage, borrowed items and family heirlooms. pieces (rental platforms can be your new best friend when it comes to nailing down this particular issue).

So how to plan what to wear? Every Cheltenham set should start with a look at the weather forecast, so you know what you're up against. “In terms of fabrics, wool, tweed and bouclé work particularly well in adverse weather conditions,” advises Edwards, “as does bonded cotton which has water-repellent qualities.” He also advises carrying a clear umbrella (it's what Queen Elizabeth used to do, which allowed her to see and be seen). If it's cold, a jumpsuit might be a good option, suggests Susie Hasler, personal stylist at Styled by Susie, because “you could even wear tights underneath if you're really feeling the cold.” Or, if you're a little more daring, “you could even opt for a matching pantsuit in a warm fabric like velvet,” she says. Think Claudia Winkleman strolling through a Scottish castle in The traitors.

You also have to think about the overall effect. If you're going to be outside all day, “chances are that your clothes won't be fully visible,” warns Hasler, “so instead of throwing on a last-minute rain jacket, look for something warm and attractive.” Otherwise , your overall vibe might end up being more of a soccer coach grimacing from the sidelines than a stylish racing fan. She advises opting for longer styles with plush wool, faux fur, or chic felt. And as for shoes “Keep in mind that if you're wearing heels that are uncomfortable at the beginning of the day, you'll want to take them off at the end of your runs,” Masler wisely points out. Stilettos are a bad idea, unless you feel like following your friends while You try to dig your thin heels out of the mud every few steps. “If you opt for a heel, make sure it has a sturdy block heel so it doesn't sink into the grass,” advises Louise Duncum, personal stylist at Weiz Styles. “A platform sole It is also a great option to give height but more comfort to the foot.”

Avant-garde: designer Jade Holland Cooper wears a striking pantsuit

(Andrew Matthews/PA Wire)

When choosing a color, Lindsay Edwards believes that for men, “a well-cut suit in country colors like olive green or brown looks great, as does a plaid or herringbone tweed.” And for race-loving women looking for something equally understated, she advises trying “navy, plum or olive.” If you're not sure which colors suit you, try teal or Cadbury purple, which work for everyone, whatever your color.” White or cream, she says, is probably not the best choice, as “the inevitable mud splatters will appear throughout the day.” After all, it's early spring in Gloucestershire, not summer on the Riviera.

Essentially, you don't need to aim for a full lord or lady of the manor cosplay, or opt for something that follows the trends. “The most stylish attendees of the day will be those who opt for timeless classics mixed with a few fashion elements for a balanced and sophisticated look,” says Alison Lowe, fashion consultant and MBA Fashion Entrepreneurship course leader at Eastern University. London. And no, you don't really need to wear a fascinator if that's your personal form of sartorial hell (just me?)

“Cheltenham is not the occasion for wearing wildly elaborate hats,” adds Lowe. “Save those overly extravagant headdresses for Ascot.” Noted.

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