Ann Arbor Schnecken (Sticky Nut Rolls) Recipe by Joan Nathan


Sticky pecan rolls, cut into concentric circles and toasted on a buttered griddle, were the irresistible draw of Ann Arbor's now-closed Drake's Sandwich Shop when I was a student at the University of Michigan. I pictured a little old lady making these bagels every morning, but I recently discovered that Drake's had ordered them from another bakery.

Baker Frank Carollo also tried Drake's pecan muffins when he was at the University of Michigan. He later became co-managing partner of Bakehouse, the second business in the Zingerman's Deli empire. Frank learned how to make pecan muffins, as did I, from Michael London of Mrs. London's Bakeshop in Saratoga Springs, New York. Michael learned about these schnecken (the German and Yiddish name for “snails”) from the greatest of masters, William Greenberg of William Greenberg Desserts in New York. Every time I make these pecan sticky buns, I remember the taste and the carefree years at my alma mater.

Please note that buns reheat well at room temperature (even if they have been frozen). Make them in two days; The dough is very soft, but that is not a mistake.

From the story: Joan Nathan is more than a Jewish cookbook writer. Her new memoir shows why

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